How Peptides Can Slow the Skin's Aging Process

Aging is inevitable, but new scientific breakthroughs are giving us more tools to fight back. The discovery of peptides' ability to produce favorable skincare results happened within the past decade, and the benefits are rapidly being discovered.

The use of peptides in cosmetic products has some specifications that must be met in order for them to be effective. As long as these aspects are meticulously cared for, peptides are producing profound results.

What are peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids linked together to form an amine or peptide bond. These chains are composed primarily of carbon, oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen.

When it comes to promoting skin health, there are about twenty standard amino acids playing key roles. High-performance ingredients can be produced when these bonds are made in a precise fashion. They have the ability to address many skin issues, including rosacea, hyper-pigmentation, acne, and wrinkles.

Your body naturally produces peptides. These peptides are critical in many different body functions. However, peptides used in skin care do differ from these naturally occurring peptides. Topical applications use engineered peptides to target specific cells within the skin. The peptides send targeted messages to the nucleus of the cell after binding with various receptors on the cell's surface. The cell produces an action after receiving the new set of messages from the peptide.

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Peptide type 1: Carrier peptides

Peptides are generally classified into four different types. Carrier peptides were the first commercialized peptides. They were developed to carry copper into the cells to help with wound healing. Although it was successful and there were positive effects for removing lines and wrinkles, copper has been associated with free radical damage and can create advanced glycation. Glycation is the build-up of too much sugar in the body, which can result in the skin having an older appearance.

Peptide type 2: Signal peptides

The second type of peptide is a signal peptide. This is the most common type of peptide used in our products. There are many different types of signal peptides but most perform one of five basic functions. Most of them help boost collagen structure in the body. The most abundant protein in the body, collagen, is the main protein structure in our skin. Some signal peptides target elastin. Why does your skin return to normal after it is pinched up high into the air? Elastin. When it begins breaking down, the skin stops bouncing back to its original position causing permanent lines.

Signal peptides also target fibronectin. This is a cell secretion that helps with cell adhesion and wound healing.

Proteoglycans are another element in the body that signal peptides can trigger. Proteoglycans make up the space in-between cells and help build healthy collagen.

A final aspect of the body that can be targeted by signal proteins is glycosaminoglycan. This is a molecular structure in the body that is highly polar and attracts water. Thus, it adds long-term lubricating effects to the body, hydrating the skin and reducing wrinkles.

Peptide type 3: Neurotransmitter peptides

The third type of peptide is a neurotransmitter peptide. These peptides function almost like Botox without having to visit a doctor's office or receive any injections. These peptides relax muscles, reducing facial wrinkles. A common ingredient "Snap-8 (acetyl Octapeptide - 3) has been shown to reduce wrinkle depth by 63% in just 28 days (skininc.com).

Peptide type 4: Enzyme-modulating peptides

The fourth type of peptides are enzyme-modulating peptides. Derived mostly from botanical sources, these peptides work in the metabolic processes inhibiting the function of key enzymes. For example, soy protein reduces pigmentation, inhibits hair growth, and inhibits the production of proteins that break down collagen and elastin. Rice protein basically inhibits the body from performing a process that takes away molecules that water can bind to so it is commonly used in moisturizers to keep the skin plump.

Peptides in skin care products

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It is important to note that when used in skin care products the percentage of peptides makes a big difference in the product’s performance. Use only professional-grade, small batch products to get the most peptides. Even if an over-the-counter product claims it contains peptides, it doesn’t mean it’s an effective amount.

Peptides tend to be large molecular structures. In addition to their size, they are water-soluble. This can make it difficult for them to penetrate the cell where they are effective. They are often paired with an ingredient that acts like a carrier. A common ingredient fulfilling this role is Vitamin A, which is lipid soluble and able to move through a cell to interact with cellular DNA.

If products are too thick, the peptide will sit atop the skin never penetrating until it is washed off.

A final requirement to the effective use of peptides in skin care products is proper peptide stabilization. Remember that peptides are chains of amino acids; so are proteins. They are just very long chains (typically with over 50 bonds). To produce peptides, chemists break down proteins. If these broken-down proteins (now called "peptides") are not stabilized properly, they will continue to break down, rendering them useless in your facial product.

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Do peptides really work?

Peptide products are crafted to communicate directly with your body's cellular structure. That being said, there is an ongoing debate over the FDA's (Federal Food and Drug Administration) regulation over these ingredients.

As the debate rages on, scientists continue researching. These scientists have found that using peptides in topical skin care products can have a dramatic effect on the collagen in your skin. Because our collagen breaks down rapidly as we age, peptides can counteract this process, making the skin, appear less wrinkled, heal faster, and be more elastic.

Using peptide products does not produce results overnight. You need to maintain a diligent application schedule. The cells need to be told what to do every day in order to have the most profound results with peptide use. Results will reveal themselves in one to three months and your skin type will also play a role in the overall effectiveness. However, the youthful, healthy skin that peptides can help ensure you maintain long into the future can't be overlooked.

Don't be fooled by fancy labels promising incredible results. It is important to consult your skin care professional to get the best product for your skin type.

Over-the-counter products generally won't provide the results you are looking for because they have to follow a one size fits all philosophy (see Over the Counter Vs. Professional Products for more information on choosing your skin care products). Do your research and spend your money on a product that is going to meet your expectations.

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• Works Cited

• Benabio. “Do Peptides in Skin Care Products Work?” The Derm Blog, 16 Sept. 2012

• “Peptides for Skin.” The Dermatology Review, 4 Oct. 2017

• Pugliese, Michael Q., and L.E. “Understanding The Technology of Peptides.” Skin Inc.,